A place to get restaurant reviews and other interesting tidbits about Houston.

Monday, May 21, 2007

Jazzing at the Cafe

For many years, my inferiority complex has gotten the better of me. The result: I have avoided several locations in downtown Houston. I know I am not beautiful enough to compete at the Mercury Room, Slainte, or the Flying Saucer. Rather than running the risk of being rejected from such downtown locations based solely on my looks, I have chosen not to stand outside these clubs waiting for my turn to be let in. Instead, I usually opt for the likes of Kaye's Lounge, where I am admitted with open arms, if not the open Texas table. (For those of you who don't know, Kaye's is a dive bar that had a table in the shape of Texas. Yes, it's true.) This situation has been fine with me, as I feel I have come to terms with my relationship with downtown Houston.

But during my tenure of working downtown, I've realized that my inferiority complex has, perhaps, made me a bit judgemental. I am trying to grow as a foodie, which means putting aside my issues... sometimes. Last week, I went to lunch with my friend Chris at Sambucca Jazz Cafe. I've avoided this place thinking it would be expensive and full of glam. I imagined walking in and having the staff point at me and say, "You. Out. You get winded walking up three measly flights of stairs. Come back when you've dropped those 30 pounds and grown 6 inches. We can't work under these conditions."

Not so.

The wait staff was more than welcoming and very friendly, despite the waiter's lisp that both annoyed and turned Chris on at the same time. The decor was really hip, but comfortable. Dark couches and chairs around small bistro tables.

But most importantly, the food was heavenly.

I got the soup, salad, and sandwich combo. The chicken tortilla soup was excellent, if only a little short on the chicken. It was a nice combination of spices that didn't overpower the corn flavor of the chips. And there was a nice bit of cheese that made up for the lack of chicken. The salad was a Gorgonzola pecan salad. While this combination is becoming a bit commonplace, it doesn't fail to please. The salty cheese was nicely balanced with the sweet candied pecans. And my half a sandwich was brie, turkey, and pear on a croissant. That combination is always light enough for lunch, even though the croissant is anything but. The entire meal was a bargain at 11 dollars.

I rarely have food envy, but here was an exception. Chris had an even more delectable lunch that actually made me a little jealous. The chicken breast with white cheddar sauce was not only imaginative, but really, really good. It was kind of a gravy over the whole breast, which was gigantic. I've never had squash that was that tasty. I don't know how the do it, but one bite had me hooked. It was a refreshing garlic taste. The mashed potatoes were the least interesting part of his plate, which meant that I stopped at only six bites of his Mount Everest-sized portion.

You can't turn down dessert at a place that makes their own... so we got the toffe bread pudding. I don't want to suggest it was bad. It wasn't. It just wasn't the best part of the meal. The pudding felt a little stale or grainy, although I can't put my finger on exactly what was wrong. The taste was good, and it was hot and steamy, but it felt dry. I would easily slurp down another one given the chance. This isn't a once bitten twice shy. It's more I might have gotten the wrong dessert, and darn it, I'll try until I get it right.

All in all, I can safely say that Sambucca does not fit into the category of pretentious downtown venues. Another lunch is in order any day. And thanks to you, Sambucca, for showing me that not all downtown places are created equal.

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