Iron Fish: Teppay vs. Kaneyama

The first time I had sushi, I mean really had sushi, I had been living in Houston for three days. I'd had rolls from the grocery store filled with cucumbers and carrots. I thought this was sushi, but when I told my sister Emily about it, she smiled, shook her said and said, "That's not real sushi. That's just veggies and rice." Yeah, I thought, but I'm not going to eat that raw stuff. Like many non-sushi eaters, I knew that eating raw fish was disgusting. I knew, without a doubt, that it would be a mouthful of fishy lake water. I'd lived in Wisconsin long enough to know that fish was meant to be deep fried, and served with lemons and at least two cups of mayonnaise-based tartar sauce. If I was to eat sushi, it was going to be veggies and rice, thank you very much.

Three days after moving cross country to Houston, I started my job at BMC Software. When lunchtime rolled around, my new manager Jane came to pick me up from HR orientation. "We're going to lunch. Is sushi ok?" she asked over her shoulder as she ran to the car. Immediately I panciked. You see, the casualness with which she clipped off the question told me that my carrot and cucumber rolls would not qualify as sushi eating, in addition it also be alerted to the fact that yes was the correct and only answer. "Sure," I tried to prevent my voice from cracking in a tell-tale way that showed fear.

The entire way over to the sushi restaurant, I remembered stories of when my sister Gwen lived in Japan. I had visions of fish bowls filled with swimming goldfish placed in front of me with a set of chopsticks. I imagined myself, as my sister had explained, snapping out little fish and dropping them down the hatch still breathing and flopping. Or maybe I would be required to pick out a fish from the tank and request how it be sushi-tized. I was in a real sweat by the time we arrived at Kaneyama. I felt relieved that Jane had brought four other people along so I didn't have to talk to anyone. (The new person at lunch rarely gets talked to.)

When we walked in, there were two stands with plates of food covered in plastic wrap. I was having a showdown with them when Jane pointed at one and said, "The sushi lunch special is always great. You'll have to get that." I had just started to slow down my heartrate because I'd spied something that looked, well, fried on the other plate. Jane's recommendation looked entirely raw. I felt obligated to get what my new boss recommended. I coached myself as we walked to the table, it's ok, because at least the sushi special takes the worry out of ordering. Now you just need to worry about getting the food down. But, I remembered, I knew some tricks from childhood when I didn't want to eat my mother's Ruben Casserole. I could use those tactics to get the food washed down with minimal gagging.

In hind sight, I don't know why I didn't just say I hadn't has sushi before. Also, I now realize that Jane was just trying to be helpful and wouldn't have given a second thought if I had gone off on my own. Yet, neither occurred to me at the moment. When the food arrived, I smelled something wonderful. It was greasy, hot... no it was deep fried. I looked next to me, Jeanine got the bento box I'd spied earlier. (I was seated next to her because she'd also recently moved from the midwest and I think they thought we could bond. During lunch we did bond over the commonality of loving potato casserole with corn flake topping, but the during my tenure we never really moved off that plateau.) Anyway, Jeanine said, "You're brave. I would never try raw fish." I smiledas I lovingly eyed her lunch, thinking thank you for the reminder.

My first experience with sushi, I mean real sushi, was divine. I had no idea what I was eating at the time, but I knew that the orange fish was buttery and almost creamy. The rolls were spicy and made my nose run a little. And whatever that white one was... it was cold and refreshing. Now, I admit there were two pieces that scared me and I did ask what they were (clam and octopus). I found them less impressive, but by the end of the meal, Kaneyama and I were new best friends. Kaneyama, for the next year, was my sushi tutor. I went for lunch close to once a week, where I tried any number items. Kaneyama has great, creative rolls that are always fresh. Their Kanyama Roll is a particular favorite, with three types of fresh fish. Their Pepper Tuna has a great spice, but is not overpowering. When I got laid off from BMC, I started eating at places closer to my dwellings. Yet no matter where I go, this gem has been my yardstick by which all sushi is measured.

About five months after I was laid off, my sister Gwen and her husband were on a short stint in Austin. During that time, a Japanese woman suggested that Teppay was the best sushi in Houston. I sat on that nugget for almost four years. Finally, I did something about it last week. My recent trip to Teppay was a new experience in Japanese eating. First, the menu is in Japanese, and translated into English. This is a great sign... it means these people are legit. The place is small and looks like something out of my sister's photo album from her time in Japan.

The menu consists of about 30-40 kinds of sushi: just cuts of fish and rice. They also have about 12 rolls to choose from. From what I understand, this is also authentic. All these cream cheese rolls with mango, jalapeno, and lettuce are merely Americanized versions of the traditional recipe. And the taste at Teppay... well, you'd be hard pressed to find better cuts of salmon or yellowtail. Those two in particular stand out as the most flavorful and satisfying items I've had there. The spicy yellowtail roll alone is worth a return trip.

I don't know about the other aspects of Teppay though. We got wasabi shumai, which were still frozen in the middle. It was actually bizarre for the spice was intense and great rush, but repulsive at the same time due to the ice crystals crunching on my teeth. While I recommend going, be aware that I can only really recommend the extensive sushi menu.

In the great sushi battle, Kaneyama wins hands-down. They have a consistency that can't be beat, and while I like the traditional Japanese atmosphere at Teppay, I like the creative license my teacher Kaneyama takes with some of their menu items. I'd gladly sacrafice a few additional fish options for their Houston Roll.

When Matt (my boyfriend turned fiancee) and I went on our second date, I pulled a Jane. He asked what I thought would be a good place to meet, and I said, "How about sushi?" "Great," he sounded enthusiastic. When we got there, I asked if he wanted to order his own stuff or if we both got stuff and shared? "We can share, but why don't you order, since I don't have a lot of exeperience." I don't know why I didn't see that he was perfect for me then... his willingness to just jump in and give it a try.... I remember asking what he'd had before. "Uh, California rolls mostly." I thought, that's not real sushi.