The Great Gnocchi Battle

Gnocchi is one of my favorite foods. These tiny pillows of flour are mixed with potatoes or ricotta. I like to mash them around on my tongue, savoring the tiny bursts of flour mixed with a hearty ragu. When I grew up in Kenosha, I ate gnocchi regularly. These hand-made delicacies were rolled against a gnocchi board and plopped into boiling water by countless sweaty local Italian women named Francie, Rita, and Mima, all with dark lip hair and moles with whiskers. I knew I loved the little buggers (the gnocchi, not the hairy moles), but had no idea how amazing and difficult they were to make. When I left Kenosha, I craved the dumplings as intensely as any junky might. In fact, I tried my hand at them. While my attempts were hardly close, it calmed my cravings.

This past birthday, I was treated to several celebratory dinners. My attempt was to try as many gnocchis throughout Houston as possible. I managed to have four Italian dinners, three of which I procured the heavenly dumpling.

I have read about Perbacco's gnocchi, and my first visit was not only a lackluster one (read Per-whatto?), but they were not serving gnocchi that day. When I went the day after my birthday, I was in luck. They had my little darlings made to order. They were good. A bit mushy, but a satisfactory attempt. I wasn't pleased with the pasta sauce, however, which is as critical to overall enjoyment as any other aspect of the dish. It was bland. A bit boring, if you will. The lackluster sauce earned the gnocchi a shrug of my shoulders, saying, eh, that was ok. While it's an honest attempt, I hate the idea of ruining the cloud-like puffs with a mediocre sauce. The gnocchi themselves were borderline good, but slid down a notch to an "Eh" rating. The would have been great in a butter sauce with garlic, basil, a little onion, with some parmesan cheese sprinkled on top. Now that would have made these little honies something worth eating... and going back for. It seems that as they stand, this dish was a waste of ingredients, food space in my gut, and everyone's time from those who make the gnocchi to those who eat it.

The middle tier was Mia Bella. Now this luncheon option is an exciting one. You pick your pasta, two toppings, and a sauce. What fun! I mixed my gnocchi base with mushrooms and spinace, and an olive oil/lemon/herb sauce. It was very good. I must tell you that having the options available was very comforting. I think that the sauce could have used a little more garlic and a little less herb, but aside from that, the dumplings were solid and soft both at the same time. It was great treat and a good recovery from the Perbacco debacle. If I went again, which I assure you I will, I would try it with maybe a hearty red sauce. Somehow, the excess herbs overpowered the dish slightly. I think their red sauce would be a good, solid compatriot.

Finally, the best of the best, was, surprisingly, Maggianos. I know that the restaurant is 1) a chain, 2) unbearably noisy, and 3) in uptown park. The trifecta of what might make for a miserable experience. And believe me when I tell you eating here is a labor of love. It's that live band that makes the dining experience so painful. It's loud, horribly off key, and they sing songs that turn even a Muzak lover's stompach. But this Gnocchi Alla Vodka Sauce is worth braving all three negative aspects. The tomato vodka sauce that covers my petite sweeties is amazing. It's tart and garlicky and substantial. There are tomato pieces in the sauce that give it a little zip that you aren't anticipating. The gnocchi... I don't care if it's hand made or bought by a factory... it's exactly what I wanted it to be. Firm, delicate, and substantial. It's enough to make my former Italian mother's envious. I got the full order, and I'm glad I did. My mom went around and gobbled up all the plump tomatoes out of the sauce. Then she moved into full-on sharing with me. I have no issues with sharing, provided I get my fill. And I did. After both of us ate our share, I still had enough left over for a substantial left-over meal.

The love of gnocchi has encouraged me to try my hand at them again. I received the Silver Spoon Cookbook from Matt, and I think that's all the encouragement I need to get going.